More QRW Spring 2008 feature articles:

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Best of The Best (Part I)

California Pinot Noir

The Golden State continues to do well
with this hard-to-handle varietal.

QRW Tasting Team

Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to grow. It prefers cool climes to hot, does not easily adapt, and is prone to disease. Yet a growing number of California wineries are doing an excellent job of mastering this contrarian grape, as the wines below clearly demonstrate.

Five-Star Pinot Noirs

Wines of extraordinary character and quality —
in a class by themselves

• 2005 Chalone Estate Pinot Noir (Chalone), $40. Big, rich, ripe, round, plump, succulent, black plum favors.
  
  

• 2006 Consilience Pinot Noir “Bien Nacido Vineyard” (Santa Barbara County), $38. Plush, round, intensely ripe, black cherry and creamy oak-vanillin flavors.
  
  

• 2006 J. Jacaman Pinot Noir “Manchester Ridge” (Mendocino County), $46. Bright, ripe, pure, juicy, elegant, black raspberry flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Heller Estate Pinot Noir (Carmel Valley), $40. Rich, velvety, well- concentrated,black cherry, spice and roasted nut flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir “Botella” (Sta Rita Hills/Santa Barbara County), $40. Rich, plush, round, well-concentrated, black cherry and toasted almond flavors.

Four-Star California Pinot Noirs

Wines of excellent character and quality —
benchmarks of their type

• 2005 Acacia Pinot Noir (Carneros/Napa Valley), $24. Earthy, nutty, toasty, elegant, black cherry and spice flavors. BEST VALUE
  
  
• 2006 Belle Glos Pinot Noir “Las Alturas Vineyard” (Santa Lucia Highlands), $60. Intense, toasty, well-knit, black cherry and nutmeg flavors.
  
  
• 2006 Belle Glos Pinot Noir “Clark and Telephone Road Vineyard” (Santa Maria Valley), $50. Rich, lush, elegant, texturous, black cherry, chocolate and vanilla flavors.
  
  
• 2006 Cuvaison Pinot Noir (Carneros/Napa Valley), $33. Ripe, supple, elegant, well-knit, dark chocolate and black cherry flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Etude Pinot Noir (Carneros), $42. Tight, taut, elegant, well-concentrated, black fruit and toasted nut flavors; needs time.
  
  
• 2003 Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir “Gravel Knob” (Carneros), $40. Soft, succulent, elegantly knit, black plum and toast flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Gainey Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills), $30. Polished, silky, well-knit, black cherry and nutmeg flavors.
  
  
• 2004 Goldeneye Pinot Noir “Confluence Vineyards” (Anderson Valley), $70. Deft, elegant, well-balanced, black cherry, cocoa and nutmeg flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir “Ten” (Sta Rita Hills/Santa Barbara County), $70. Rich, ripe, plush, texturous, black fruit and roasted nut flavors.
  
  
• 2005 Wattle Creek Pinot Noir (Yorkville Highlands), $35. Big, rich, plump, juicy, black cherry and toasted nut flavors.